We flew into Biarritz, France and took a bus to Bayonne where we were to spend our first night. We were early enough to take a walk around the city. We happened upon a rugby match and found it interesting to see where the opposing team's fans got to view the game from. I guess the old city walls are good for something.
We awoke the next morning to light rain. Took a train to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port which was our starting point. We got our pilgram's passport (a little booklet that you get stamped at the towns/villages that you stay at) and set off over the mountain pass. There would have been stunning views - had we been able to see them. Two hours into our 7 hour walk it started to pour down with rain. The water ran down our legs and into our boots - it felt like we had an inch of water in them. We looked like a couple of drowned rats, but took the photo anyway.
The sun came out the last 2 hours of the walk. Nevertheless, we were thrilled to get a nice hotel room that was warm -- notice the boots on the radiator. The woman at the albergue told us that the trick is to put newspaper in your boots overnight, and then the next morning after wearing your boots for a couple hours, to them change to some dry socks. Worked great.
Notice my wet shirt from yesterday being dried on the outside of the pack while walking!
We had beautiful blue skies the rest of the week.
We had to watch out for the markers showing the way. They could be anywhere. Once, in one of the cities, we weren't paying attention and just followed another pilgram up ahead -- ended up going several blocks out of our way. After that we were more careful.
In one small village there were only two choices of places to eat. We chose to eat with this Spanish woman who ran a small store/cafe in the basement of her home. There were 8 of us for dinner. Most were French speakers. Ingrid speaks a little French so we were able to get most of their stories. The woman at the front left was our hostess. They were all characters and it was the most fun I've had not understanding 90% of the conversation that was going on.
One of our stops along the way was Pamplona, the town famous for it's bull running.
It is beautiful.
We decided to try a albergue. This one was an old church built in 1782, but the inside had been refurbished in the past couple of years. It slept about 120 on two floors. Interesting evening. Ear plugs didn't quite drown out the snoring and one old spanish gentleman decided that parading around in his t-shirt and underpants wasn't a problem. We did, nonetheless, meet some very interesting people. Canadian middionite girls, a math teacher from Boston, 3 out of work Spanish young adults, an Austrailian nanny, some people from South Korea and the odd person or two from Germany and The Netherlands. One evening in the public albergue was enough. The next night we found a private albergue where we had our own room and bathroom!
These are some views of Ulterga as we approached it. The photo is too small to see properaly, but there are pilgrams on the road ahead of us in the top right-hand photo.
This is the inside of Santa Maria de Eunate. It is an eight-cornered pilgrimage church built at the end of the 12th century. They think it was built for the Order of Templar Knights.
We decided to try a albergue. This one was an old church built in 1782, but the inside had been refurbished in the past couple of years. It slept about 120 on two floors. Interesting evening. Ear plugs didn't quite drown out the snoring and one old spanish gentleman decided that parading around in his t-shirt and underpants wasn't a problem. We did, nonetheless, meet some very interesting people. Canadian middionite girls, a math teacher from Boston, 3 out of work Spanish young adults, an Austrailian nanny, some people from South Korea and the odd person or two from Germany and The Netherlands. One evening in the public albergue was enough. The next night we found a private albergue where we had our own room and bathroom!
These are some views of Ulterga as we approached it. The photo is too small to see properaly, but there are pilgrams on the road ahead of us in the top right-hand photo.
This is the inside of Santa Maria de Eunate. It is an eight-cornered pilgrimage church built at the end of the 12th century. They think it was built for the Order of Templar Knights.
There were churches all along the way, but we weren't able to see in many of them as the Spanish only open them 1/2 hour before mass.
These are some shots of some of the buildings we saw. The door knockers like the one below were all over the place. I'd love to get one. The bottom middle photo is a shot of peppers being hung to dry on their railings.
This is the bridge of Puente la Reina - probably built in the 11th century.
We had an evening and morning in Santandar. It is a lovely city. Our favourite
These are some shots of some of the buildings we saw. The door knockers like the one below were all over the place. I'd love to get one. The bottom middle photo is a shot of peppers being hung to dry on their railings.
This is the bridge of Puente la Reina - probably built in the 11th century.
After 5 days and 70 miles we were more than ready to take a bus to Santandar.
One has to love 20th century technology!
We had an evening and morning in Santandar. It is a lovely city. Our favourite
treat was churro's and chocolate. Had it twice!!
Nicole said I had to add a video. Here's my attempt.
Nicole said I had to add a video. Here's my attempt.
I blame exhaustion for my quick mathmatical abilities.
All in all, a very fun trip and great experience. Learned a few things for 'next time', like --
take some make-up - it doesn't weigh that much!!
rode past loads of gorgeous, old mansions,
stopped and saw a 778 year old church,
saw lot and lots of pubs
Richard did a great job of making sure we didn't get lost. A few less hills and it would have been
